Squid, tomato and celery salad
‘Picnics should be simple,’ says chef and cookery writer Rowley Leigh. ‘So the kit should be simple: I have enamelled tin plates that are light to carry, Duralex glasses, proper cutlery (I am not a fan of plastic knives and forks) and plenty of plastic storage boxes with lids, which stack easily and are not heavy. As long as you don’t forget the bread knife and the bottle opener, that’s about all you require. I would rather eat recumbent like a Roman than go round carrying chairs and picnic tables. If it is good enough for Édouard Manet, it is good enough for me. The food should be equally unfussy.
Lots of different things piled on a plate just makes a mess and having too many ingredients or garnishes is an opportunity for accidents and attracting wasps. Logistics aside, the first fruits of summer – whether it is peas or gooseberries, melons or tomatoes – should sing clear and sweet. And they need not be messed about with.’
Cleaning squid is a messy business; fortunately, fishmongers are usually happy to do it and squid is often sold already prepared. The rule for cooking squid is either very quickly or very slowly. With small squid, quick is usually better.
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Ingredients
Serves 6-8
Methods
Step 1
Bring a large pot of water to the boil with 1tbsp salt. Cut the squid bodies into rings 5mm wide and separate the tentacles into smaller pieces, slicing larger ones into bite-sized chunks. Rinse well then drop into the boiling water – the moment they turn white, after barely 1 minute, lift them out with a slotted spoon and spread on a tray to cool.
Step 2
Drop the tomatoes into the boiling water for 30 seconds, before lifting out and rinsing in cold water. Peel and discard skins, cut in half, scoop out the seeds, then slice the flesh into thin strips.
Step 3
Remove the thick outer stalks of the celery (you can keep them for some other use), reserve the leaves and slice the inner heart of celery diagonally into thin strips.
Step 4
Combine the squid and vegetables, including the celery leaves, in a bowl, and toss with the chilli flakes, mint leaves and olives.
Step 5
Just before serving, season with salt, pepper, the juice of the two lemons and the olive oil.
